u- ; - 

A 

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Questions and Answers on 
Rifle and Equipment 
for Privates 



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COPYRIGHT 1915 BY 
F. C. BOLLES AND J. S. UPHAM 

U. S. ARMY 

MADISON BARRACKS, N.Y. 


JUN -9 1915 


UCS23 

/Be. 

Questions and Answers on Rifle 
and Equipment for Privates. 


Q. 1. From what articles issued to you for field service 
should you never become separated? 

A. (a) Rifle and bayonet. 

(b) Ammunition. 

(c) Intrenching tool. 

(d) Pack and cartridge belt. 


Q. 2. What articles constitute 
A. 1 Bayonet and scabbard 
1 Brush and thong 
1 Front sight cover 
1 Rifle, U. S., Cal. 30 
1 Bacon can 
1 Condiment can 
1 Canteen 
1 Canteen cover 
1 Cartridge belt, Cal. 30 
1 Cup 

1 First aid package 
1 Fork 
1 Gun sling 
1 Knife 
1 Haversack 
1 Pack carrier 
Ammunition and rations if 


my field kit? 

1 Pouch for first aid 
package 
1 Meat can 
1 Spoon 

1 Shelter half and rope 
5 Shelter ten pins 
1 Poncho 
1 Blanket 
1 Cake of soap 
1 Tooth brush 
1 Comb 

1 Pr. socks, L. W. 

1 Towel 

1 Identification tag and 
tape 

1 Intrenching tool 
issued. 


3 



Figs. 


Rifle and Bayonet 




































































































































































































































































































CHAPTER I. 


Rifle and Bayonet. 

Q. 1. What is the name and caliber of your rifle? 

A. U. S. Magazine rifle, caliber 30. 

Q. 2. What i's the number of your rifle? 

A. Number “-.” 

Q. 3. Where do you find the number of your rifle? 

A. On the right side of front end of receiver. 

Q. 4. What is meant by caliber? 

A. The distance across the bore measured between the 
lands. In this rifle, thirty hundredths of an inch. 

Q. 5. Point out the following parts on Page 1 and explain 
their use: 

Q. Stock? 

A. Fig. 1. The metallic parts of the gun are mounted on 
the stock. 

Q. Hand guard? 

A. Fig. 2. To protect the hand when the barrel of the gun 
becomes heated. 

Q. Guard? 

A. Fig. 3. To protect the trigger. Also anchors the barrel 
and stock by means of two screws. 

Q. Bolt? 

A. Fig. 4. Contains firing and extracting mechanism. 

Q. Barrel? 

A. Fig. 5. Has front sight stud and rear sight base at¬ 
tached and the bore has four lands and grooves. 
The twist is uniform, one turn in ten inches. 

Q. Receiver? 


5 



Rifle and Bayonet 



Fig. 17 















































































































































































































































































































































































































Rifle and Bayonet. 


A. Fig. 6. Contains loading, firing, extracting and ejecting 
mechanism. 

Q. Butt plate? 

A. Fig. 7. To protect the butt of the stock. 

Q. Upper band? 

A. Fig. 8. Fastens muzzle of barrel to stock. 

Q. Magazine spring? 

A. Fig. 9. Presses against and lifts the follower. 

Q. Follower? 

A. Fig. 10. Holds cartridges in proper position for loading 
and unloading. 

Q. Extractor? 

A. Fig. 11. Draws cartridges and shells from chamber. 

Q. Floor plate? 

A. Fig. 12. Contains seat for magazine spring. 

Q. Firing pin? 

A. Fig. 13. Forces striker forward when main spring is re¬ 
leased. 

Q. Movable base? 

A. Fig. 14. Movable base for rear sight leaf and is used to 
correct for windage. 

Q. Rear sight leaf and slide? 

A. Fig. 15. Used for setting correct elevation for firing. 

Q. Trigger? 

A. Fig. 16. For discharging the piece. 

Q. Lower band? 

A. Fig. 17. Binds stock and hand guard to barrel. 

Q. Sleeve? 

A. Fig. 18. Connects bolt and firing pin. 

Q. Cut-off? 


7 



Rifle and Bayonet 







































































































































































Rifle and Bayonet. 


A. Fig. 19. Regulates use of cartridges in magazine. When 
“OFF” allows rifle to be used as a single loader; 
when “ON” as a magazine loader and in middle 
position allows bolt to be taken from receiver. 

Q. Safety lock? 

A. Fig. 20. To prevent the piece from being accidentally 
discharged. 

Q. Main spring? 

A. Fig. 21. When released it supplies the striker with suf¬ 
ficient force to explode the primer. 

Q. Stacking swivel? 

A. Fig. 22. It is attached to upper band and is used for 
forming stacks. 

Q. Lower band swivel? 

A. Fig. 23. Holds upper end of sling. 

Q. Butt swivel ? 

A. Fig. 24. Holds lower end of sling. 

Q. Lower band spring? 

A. Fig. 25. Prevents lower band from slipping. 

Q. Firing pin sleeve? 

A. Fig. 26. Connects firing pin and striker. Also holds 
main spring in place. 

Q. Striker? 

A. Fig. 27. Explodes the primer in cartridge. 

Q. Butt plate screw, large? 

A. Fig. 28. Fastens toe of butt plate to stock. 

Q. Butt plate screw, small ? 

A. Fig. 29. Fastens heel of butt plate to stock. 

Q. Butt swivel screw? 

A. Fig. 29. Fastens butt swivel to stock. May be used in 
heel of butt plate if necessary. 


9 



Rifle and Bayonet. 


Q. Cut-off spindle? 

A. Fig. 30. For the cut-off to work on. 

Q. Rear guard screw? 

A. Fig. 31. Secures the guard to the receiver. 

Q. Windage screw, assembled? 

A. Fig. 32. Secures the movable base to the fixed base. 

Q. Upper band screw? 

A. Fig. 33. Secures upper band to stock. 

Q. Cut-off spindle screw? 

A. Fig. 34. To hold cut-off spindle in place. 

Q. Sear joint pin? 

A. Fig. 35. Hinges the sear to the receiver. 

Q. Lower band screw? 

A. Fig. 36. Fastens lower band swivel to lower band. 

Q. Stacking swivel screw? 

A. Fig. 37. Fastens stacking swivel to upper band and is 
longer than lower band screw. 

Q. Front guard screw? 

A. Fig. 38. Secures the guard to the receiver. 

Q. Joint pin? 

A. Fig. 39. Hinge for sight leaf. 

Q. Cut-off spring spindle? 

A. Fig. 40. Keeps the cut-off in its seat in the receiver. 

Q. Front sight? 

A. Fig. 42. Set in slot in movable stud. 

Q. Cut-off spring? 

A. Fig. 43. Sets over cut-off spring spindle. 

Q. Sear spring? 

A. Fig. 44. Holds sear in place. 

Q. Front sight pin? 

A. Fig. 45. Fastens front sight to movable base. 

Q. Oiler and thong case? 


10 



Rifle and Bayonet. 


A. Fig. 46. To carry oil, cleaning brush and thong. It is 
kept in butt of piece. 

Q. Floor plate catch spring? 

A. Fig. 47. Holds the floor plate in its seat. 

Q. Point out on Fig. 48 the following: Muzzle, Barrel, Up¬ 
per Band, Stacking Swivel, Stock, Hand Guard, 
Lower Band, Finger Groove, Bolt Handle, Cocking 
Piece, Safety Lock, Safety Lug, Trigger, Trigger 
Guard, Small of Stock, Comb, Butt Swivel, Butt, 
Toe and Heel, and Bayonet Stud. 

Q. 6. What is the oil which is carried in oiler and thong 
case used for? 

A. For lubricating the working parts only. 

Q. 7. How should you put the oiler and thong case in your 
rifle? 

A. It should be put in so that the leather tipped cap will 
be next to the butt plate cap. 

Q. 8. After firing ball cartridges from your rifle, what re¬ 
mains in the bore? 

A. The burned and unburned pieces of smokeless pow¬ 
der. 

Q. 9. If you leave this in, what happens? 

A. It will eat and wear away the bore. 

Q. 10. What is the proper end from which to clean a rifle? 

A. The breech. 

Q. 11. What is issued to you for cleaning your rifle? 

A. The barrack cleaning rod. 

Q. 12. What kind of rags should you use? 

A. Canton flannel. 

Q, 18. Into what size and shape are these rags cut? 

A. Into squares about one to one and a half inches. 

Q. 14. What should you always do before putting your rifle 
away? 


11 



Rifle and Bayonet. 


A. Wipe it off with oil. 

Q. 15. Take the bolt apart and assemble it. 

Q. 16. How do you clean the bolt? 

A. By taking it apart and cleaning all the parts with 
an oiled rag, and then drying them. 

Q. 17. What do you do just before putting the bolt together 
again? 

A. Oil lightly the firing pin, the barrel of the sleeve, the 
well of the bolt and all the cams. 

Q. 18. How do you care for the stock and hand guard ? 

A. Put on a light coating of raw linseed oil once a month. 
Also after any wetting from either rain or dew. 

Q. 19. Is the oil rubbed in? 

A. Yes, rubbed in well. 

Q. 20. Are you allowed to take your rifle apart? 

A. No, except by permission of the company command¬ 
er. 

Q. 21. What is the greatest range of your rifle? 

A. 5465 yards, or about three and one-tenth miles. 

Q. 22. What is the range of effective fire? 

A. Eight hundred yards and under. 

Q. 23. What is the length and weight of your rifle without 
bayonet? 

A. A little over forty-three inches long and weighs eight 
and sixty-nine hundredths pounds. 

Q. 24. What is necessary in order that your rifle will work 
properly and be free from rust at all times? 

A. That the working parts are always well cleaned and 
oiled. 

Q. 25. What should you do in case a cartridge fails to fire? 

A. Do not draw bolt back immediately, but cock piece 
by pulling back the cocking piece. 

Q. 26. After firing when should the rifle be cleaned ? 


12 



Rifle and Bayonet. 


A. Not later than the evening of the day you fired it. 

Q. 27. What cleaning materials are needed for the proper 
care of your rifle ? 

A. A suitable rack or table upon which to fit the rifle in 
notches and also for the convenient holding of the 
cleaning material. 

(b) A barrack cleaning rod suitable for cleaning 

full length of bore from the breech. 

(c) Flannel patches cut to fit the bore properly. 

(d) Salsoda dissolved in water—as much soda as 

will dissolve in the water. 

(e) Cosmic, number 30, soft—-a heavy grease is¬ 

sued by the government. 

(f) Sperm oil. :■;! 

(g) Linseed oil. 

Q. 28. In ordinary cases how should you clean the bore? 

A. Take out the bolt. Place rifle on the cleaning rack or 
table, soak a flannel patch in the salsoda solution. 
With cleaning rod push the patch through bore 
from breech, running it back and forth full length 
of bore several times. Do this with several more 
patches. Now, do the same with several perfectly 
dry patches. Dip a patch in the cosmic and swab 
the bore as before. Put the rifle away for the day. 
Next day first swab out all the cosmic and then do 
exactly as you did on the preceding day, which will 
leave your rifle bore covered with a coating of cos¬ 
mic. 

Q. 29. What is metal fouling? 

A. It consists of small flakes of metal left near the muz¬ 
zle by the cupro-nickel jacket of the bullet. 

Q. 30. What is the objection to this in your rifle? 

A. If left in, the bore will become pitted under the metal 
fouling. 

Q. 31. When should you look for metal fouling? 


13 



Rifle and Bayonet, 







































Rifle and Bayonet. 


A. When cleaning the bore and after you have run 
through the perfectly dry patches; examine near 
muzzle looking through the muzzle end of rifle. 

Q. 32. What does metal fouling look like? 

A. Like flakes, smears or lumps of silver sticking to the 
rifling. 

Q 33. What should I do about it? 

A. I should at once take the rifle to the quartermaster 
sergeant, artificer or other person designated by 
the company commander to remove metal fouling. 

Q. 34. Point out the following parts of the bayonet from 
the cut: Blade, Edge, False Edge, Guard, Scab¬ 
bard Catch, Pommel and Tang. 


16 



CHAPTER II. 


Use of Cover in Connection with the Rifle. 

Q. 1. When firing upon the enemy and taking cover, what 
must you look out for? 

A. I must be able to fire easily and with good effect upon 
the enemy. 

Q. 2. How must you advance upon the enemy? 

A. I must advance rapidly and steadily and get as much 
cover as possible when I am doing so. 

Q. 3. Why should you not stay too long in any one place ? 

A. Because the enemy is apt to locate me and fire upon 
me. 

Q. 4. Before starting forward from one position, what 
should you do? 

A. I should select the next position from which I wanted 
to stop and fire. 

Ammunition. 

Q. 1. How much ammunition do you carry in your belt? 

A. One hundred rounds. 

Q. 2. How are ball cartridges issued ? 

A. In clips of five. 

Q. 3. Why does the bullet have a sharp point? 

A. To offer less resistance to the air. 

Q. 4. What is a bandoleer? 

A. A bandoleer is an olive drab cloth cartridge carrier 
with six pockets. 

Q. 5. How many clips are there in a bandoleer? 


16; 


Use of Cover in Connection with the Rifle. 


A. Twelve clips, two in each pocket, making a total of 
sixty cartridges. 

Q. 6. How do you open the bandoleer pockets? 

A. By pulling the piece of tape which is sewed along the 
seam. 

Q. 7. What ammunition does a soldier use first in battle? 

A. That which he carries in bandoleers. 

Q. 8. What ammunition should be held as reserve? 

A. The thirty rounds which he carries in the right three 
pockets of his field belt. 

Q. 9. When does he use this reserve ammunition? 

A. Only when ordered by an officer. 

Q. 10. How much ammunition will a soldier have for use 
during a one day's fight? 

A. That which he carries with him into the fight and 
what he may pick up from the dead and wounded. 

Q. 11. Why is it very important that he should save his am¬ 
munition ? 

A. Because when his ammunition is gone he is almost 
helpless. 

Q. 12. How many bandoleers does he carry when he goes 
into a fight? 

A. Two. 

Q. 13. How much ammunition does that give him? 

A. One hundred rounds in belt and one hundred and 
twenty rounds in the bandoleers, in all two hun¬ 
dred and twenty rounds. 

Q. 14. If he is sent forward with ammunition to the fir¬ 
ing line, would he remain upon the firing line or 
return ? 

A. Remain on the firing line and fight, always. 


17 



Use of Cover in Connection with the Rifle. 


Q. 15. Should he ever leave the firing line to get ammuni¬ 
tion? 

A. No. 

Q. 16. Should he ever leave the firing line for any pur¬ 

pose? 

A. No. 

Q. 17. What are the names of the parts of the cartridge? 

A. Brass case, primer, charge of smokeless powder and 

the bullet. 

Q. 18. What information is stamped on the case ? 

A. The initials of the place of manufacture, the number 
of the month and year of manufacture. 

Q. 19. Of what is the bullet made? 

A. A core of lead and tin composition with a jacket of 
cupro-nickel. 


18 



CHAPTER III. 


Intrenching Tool. 

Q. 1. For what purpose are your intrenching tools issued 
to you? 

A. To help me protect myself against the enemy's fire. 

Q. 2. What thickness of dry sand will protect you from 
rifle fire? 

A. About ten inches. 

Q. 3. How much moist sand? 

A. About fourteen inches. 

Q. 4. How much dirt without sand? 

A. About twenty inches. 

Q. 5. What kind of a trench does Fig. 1, Plate V, show? 

A. Hasty cover trench. 

Q. 6. What kind of a trench does Fig. 2, Plate V, show ? 

A. Kneeling trench. 

Q. 7. What kind of a trench does Fig. 3, Plate V, show? 

A. Deep and narrow fire trench. 

Q. 8 . What kind of a trench does Fig. 4, Plate V, show ? 

A. Same as number 7, except that a passage way has 
been provided. 

Q. 9. What kind of a trench does Fig. 5, Plate V, show? 

A. Same as number 8, except that overhead cover has 
been provided. 

Q. 10. What kind of a trench does Fig. 6, Plate V, show ? 

A. The Spanish trench. This trench, unlike all the 
others shown in cut, has no parapet. 

Q. 11. What is headcover? 


19 


Intrenching Tool. 

























Intrenching Tool. 


A. Sand bags, logs or other material placed on parapet 
to afford protection to the head while firing. 

Q. 12. What is overhead cover? 

A. Overhead cover is provided by placing planks or 
poles under parapet. These are covered with 
earth and sod of sufficient thickness to protect the 
men in trench from fragments of shrapnel burst¬ 
ing overhead. See Fig. 5, Plate V. 

Q. 13. What is a traverse? 

A. A partition of earth dividing a trench into smaller 
portions, such as squad or platoon lengths; it re¬ 
duces the effect of enfilade fire. 

Q. 14. What is a cover trench? 

A. A cover trench is a trench built in rear of the fire 
trench to afford protection for the support. 

Q. 15. What is a communicating trench? 

A. One which connects the fire trench with the cover 
trench. It is deep and narrow and usually zig¬ 
zagged to escape enfilade. 

Q. 16. When you have sand bags in trench when and for 
what are they used ? 

A. For head cover when actually firing on the enemy. 

At other times they should be left in the bottom 
of trench. 

Q. 17. When you put your sand bags up for head cover, how 
should they be arranged or fixed to give you great¬ 
est amount of protection with the greatest field of 
fire? 

A. They should be placed on the parapet forming an 
angle with the narrow end of angle toward trench. 

Q. 18. What should you do to the fresh earth from your 
trenches? 

A. Cover it with grass, twigs, etc. 


21 



Intrenching Tool. 




















Intrenching Tool. 


Q. 19. Why do you do this? 

A. To make them harder for the enemy to see. 

(Note) A good method for instruction in intrenching is to 
construct models of the various trenches out of 
thin lumber on a scale of 1 to 12. 

The Infantry Equipment, Model 1910. 

Q. 1. Using plate, show your instructor the following parts 
of your equipment: 

1. Pack carrier 8. 

2. Haversack and flap 9. 

8. Coupling strap 10. 

4. Binding straps of haver- 11. 

sack 12 . 

5. Cartridge belt 13. 

6. Pack binding straps 

7. 1st aid pouch 

Q. 2. How should you adjust the belt? 

A. So that it will fit loosely about the waist and rest well 
down over the hip bones and below the pit of the 
stomach. 

Q. 3. Why do you wear suspenders with this belt? 

A. It distributes the weight over the body, part on the 
shoulders and part on the waist. 

Q. 4. In adjusting the belt, of what should you be careful? 

A. To see that the adjustment is made equally from both 
ends of the adjusting strap, so that the center eye¬ 
let will come in the middle of back of the belt when 
it is worn. 

Q. 5. How should you fill the belt? 

A. (a) Unsnap the flap of the pocket and the interior 
retaining snap. 

(b) Lay the retaining strap out flat in prolongation 
of the pocket. 


Pack suspenders 

Canteen cover 

Lower suspension rings 

Meat can pouch 

Belt suspenders 

Flap for intrenching 

tool 


23 



Intrenching Tool. 


(c) Insert a clip, points of bullets up in front of re¬ 
taining strap. 

(d) Press clip down until base of clip rests on bottom 
of pocket. 

(e) Press retaining strap over the bullet points and 
fasten it to the outside of pocket by means of 
fastener provided. 

(f) Insert a second clip, points down, in rear of first 
clip. 

(g) Press down until points rest on bottom of pocket. 

(h) Close the flap of the pocket and fasten with fast¬ 
ener provided. Fill other pockets in the same 
way. 

Q. 6. Where should you attach the first aid pouch? 

A. Under the second pocket of the right section of the 
belt, unless armed with pistol, then I wear it on the 
left side of belt. 

Q. 7. Where should you attach the canteen? 

A. Under the rear pocket of the right section of the belt. 

Q. 8. How should you attach the pack carrier to the haver¬ 
sack? 

A. (a) Spread haversack on ground, inner side down, 
outer flaps to front. 

(b) Place buttonholed edge of carrier, lettered side 
up, over buttonholed edge of haversack and lace 
together with coupling strap, beginning at the 
center. 

Q. 9. How should you attach the cartridge belt to the haver¬ 
sack? 

A. (a) Place haversack and pack-carrier on the ground, 
inner side down. 

(b) Place the cartridge belt, pockets down and tops 
to the front, along the junction of the haversack 
and carrier. 


24 



Intrenching Tool. 


(c) Insert thfe hook on rear belt suspender in center 
eyelet of adjusting strap, so that end of hook 
will be on outside of belt. 

(d) Insert the hooks on ends of front belt suspen¬ 
ders in eyelets between the second and third 
pockets from the outer ends of the belt, so that 
end of hooks will be on the outside of the belt. 

Q. 10. How should you attach the bayonet scabbard to the 

haversack? 

A. (a) Pass lower end of bayonet scabbard through 
loop provided on the side of the haversack body. 

(b) Engage double hook attachment in the eyelets 
on outer flap of haversack inserting hooks from 
inside. 

Q. 11. How should you attach the intrenching tool carrier 
to the haversack? 

A. (a) Fold outer flap of haversack over so that meat 
can pouch is on top. 

(b) Pass intrenching tool carrier underneath meat 
can pouch and engage double hook attachment 
in eyelets in the flap provided, inserting the 
hooks from the underside. 

Q. 12. Where should the meat can, knife, fork and spoon 
be carried ? 

A. In the meat can pouch. 

Q. 13. How should the pack be rolled? 

A. (a) Spread shelter half on ground and fold in the 
triangular ends to make a square, the guy on the 
inside. 

(b) Fold poncho once across its shortest dimension 
and lay it in center of shelter half. 

(c) Fold blanket same way. 

(d) Place it on poncho. 


2F 



Intrenching Tool. 


(e) Put pins in fold of blanket, in center and across 
shortest dimensions. 

(f) Fold edges of shelter half snugly over blanket 
and poncho. 

(g) Beginning on a side, roll tightly. 

Q. 14 Which side of pack do you roll from? 

A. (a) From short side if the short pack is to be worn. 

(b) From long side if the long pack is to be worn. 

Q. 15. When is the short pack worn? 

A. When rations, toilet articles and underwear are car¬ 
ried in haversack just above upper end of rolled 
pack. 

Q. 16. When is the long pack worn? 

A. When rations are not carried and the bacon and 
condiment cans, (the latter inside the former) 
toilet articles and underwear are rolled up in 
the pack. 

Q. 17. How should the equipment be adjusted? 

A. (a) Put on the equipment as you would slip on a 
coat, slipping arms one at a time through pack 
suspenders. 

(b) Get another man to help you. 

(c) Raise or lower belt by means of adjusting buck¬ 
les on belt suspenders until belt is in proper posi¬ 
tion. 

(d) Raise or lower it in rear until adjusting strap 
lies smoothly across small of the back. 

(e) Using adjusting buckles on pack suspenders, 
raise or lower the load on the back until top of 
haversack is level with top of shoulders. 

Q. 18. What is the most important point in adjusting the 
equipment? 

A. To see that the top of haversack is level with the top 


26 



Intrenching Tool. 


of shoulders and that pack suspenders are ex¬ 
actly level from where they are sewn on haver¬ 
sack top to where they touch the top of shoul¬ 
ders. 

Q. 19. Why should the top of haversack be level with the 
top of shoulders? 

A. So that load will not tend to tear pack suspenders 
where they are sewn to haversack. 

Q. 20. How do you get rid of the pack without taking oif 
the rest of the equipment? 

A. Getting someone to help you will save time. 

(a) Unsnap pack suspenders from the suspension 
rings and snap them in eyelets on top of belt 
and in rear of rear pockets on both sides. 

(b) Support bottom of pack with left hand and with 
right grasp coupling strap (which is laced 
through the button holes) at its middle. 

(c) Withdraw first one end and then the other from 
the button holes. 

(d) Press down gently on pack with both hands 
and remove pack. 

(e) Lace coupling strap into button holes along up¬ 
per edge of pack carrier. 

(f) Adjust the pack suspenders. 

Q. 21. Where can I find complete detailed information 
about the Infantry Equipment and pictures? 

A. In pamphlet number 1717 called “Instructions for 
assembling the Infantry Equipment, model of 
1910,” issued by the War Department to each 
company. 

Q. 22. How will you get hold of it? 

A. Ask my company commander. 

Q. 23. When is the pack a protection to you? 

A. When I am lying down under shrapnel fire. 


27 



CHAPTER IV. 


Care of Leather Equipment. 

(For organizations having leather equipment.) 

Q. 1. What should be done to preserve the life of leather? 

A. It should be cleaned whenever dirt, grit or mud has 
collected on it or when it has become wet. 

Q. 2. How can you tell as to the condition of leather equip¬ 
ment? 

A. So long as the leather is reasonably pliable, looks and 
feels well, no oil should be used, and soap and 
polish sparingly applied. 

Q. 3. How should you clean leather equipment? 

A. Carefully wash each part with a sponge moistened 
with a thick lather made from clean water and 
castile soap; then rub it vigorously until thorough¬ 
ly dry. 

Q. 4. How should you obtain a surface polish? 

A. Apply a thick lather made from clean water and 
Frank Miller’s soap, allow lather to dry and then 
rub thoroughly with a soft cloth. 

Q. 5. If you desire only a polish of your personal leather 
equipment what should be done? 

A. Use the dressing supplied by the Ordinance Depart¬ 
ment. Apply sparingly to the surface and rub 
briskly with a dry cloth. 

Q. 6. What should be done when leather becomes hard and 
dry from exposure to wet or other cause? 

A. It should be carefully washed and then oiled. 

Q. 7. How should it be washed in this case? /X 


28 


Cake of Leather Equipment. 


A. Use a damp sponge, squeezed nearly dry, rub it on 
castile soap and manipulate so as to form a thick 
lather, apply lather to surface of leather and let it 
stand until dry. When dry remove with a clean, 
damp sponge; spots particularly soiled may be 
rubbed with a moist, soaped cloth. 

Q. 8. How should it then be oiled ? 

A. While surface of the leather is still slightly moist 
from the washing apply “Neat's Foot Oil” with a 
cloth, moistened but not wet or saturated with the 
oil. The equipment should now be left alone for 
some time, a day if practicable, and then thorough¬ 
ly rubbed with a coarse, dry cloth until the surface 
is clean. 

Q. 9. If equipment is properly cared for how often will it 
be necessary to oil it? 

A. Not more than three or four times a year. 

Q. 10. When will this not be sufficient? 

A. Under exceptional conditions of warm, moist climate 
or frequent wetting and drying. 


20 



CHAPTER V. 


Care of Clothing and Shoes. 

Q. 1. Who is responsible for the proper care and appear¬ 
ance of your clothing? 

A. I am. 

Q. 2. What is best rule to follow as to spots on clothing? 

A. Remove as soon as possible. 

Q. 3. What will take out paint? 

A. Turpentine. 

Q. 4. In what two ways can you remove grease spots? 

A. (1) Place a piece of brown paper, newspaper or 
other absorbent paper over and under the stain 
and press with a hot iron. 

(2) Moisten a clean, woolen rag with gasolene, rub 
the cloth briskly and press with a hot iron. 

Q. 5. What adds very greatly to the appearance of all uni¬ 
forms? 

A. To keep them neatly pressed. 

Q. 6. What is an inexpensive way to keep a good crease in 
a pair of trousers? 

A. Moisten the crease lightly with a moist sponge, place 
them inside of blanket once folded on top of 
your mattress. By sleeping on them the heat 
of your body will give an excellent crease. 

Q. 7. What care should you give your buttons? 

A. Gilt ornaments and buttons should be frequently pol¬ 
ished. Bronze ornaments and buttons should 
be merely wiped clean. 

Q. 8. How should you remove dirt and mud from leggins, 


30 


Care of Clothing and Shoes. 


haversacks, canteen covers and articles of web 
equipment? 

A. Wait until they dry and remove with a stiff brush be¬ 
ing careful not to injure the material. 

Q. 9. How should you remove grease spots from leggins, 
haversacks, canteen covers and articles of web 
equipment? 

A. The best way is to immerse the article completely in 
gasolene. If not enough gasolene on hand, make 
a suds from H. & H. soap (furnished by Ordin¬ 
ance Department) completely immerse the arti¬ 
cle in the suds and rub the soiled parts gently 
in clean water. 

Q. 10. Ordinarily what care is necessary for the shoes ? 

A. Keep them clean and polished. 

Q. 11. What should be done with shoes when they become 
thoroughly wet? 

A. Fill them with dry oats, bran or sand and dry in 
the shade; never near a fire. 

Q. 12. If the leather becomes hard, dry or stiff what should 
be done? 

A. Give shoes a slight coating of “Neat’s Foot Oil,” well 
rubbed in. 

Q. IB. Where is “Neat’s Foot Oil” obtained? 

A. Apply to the Company Quartermaster Sergeant as 
each company is supplied with it. 


31 



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